kilian è un grande,
ma questa volta ha fatto una caxxata
un conto è fare un record su un percorso presidiato con le guide alpine pronte a dare aiuto, ma quando si va in autonomia, bisogna avere anche un po' di margine, quindi una giacchina in più, un panino, dei guanti, un cordino...
comunque, una bella lezione di umiltà (che il ragazzo ha comunque riconosciuto)
piuttosto trovo molto pericoloso l'emulazione che "+ leggeri + veloci" può provocare
non è ammissibile che si vada in ghiacciaio con le scarpette, una scivolata, il maltempo improvviso sono sempre in agguato.
il pghm ha fatto bene a "cazziare" il fenomeno
Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Moderatore: leosorry
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Ti tocca di farti venire a prendere...Mammut ha scritto:Eh si! se ti tocca di morire......Smit ha scritto:E poi, dulcis in fundo, c'è la sfiga che non guarda in faccia nessuno e "se ti tocca ti tocca"!!!
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
La versione di kilian copiaIncollata dal suo blog.
On September 8th, I was climbing a mountain path on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi (France), the so-called Frendo spur. This was a route that I had done before with only the minimum of material. We were going according to schedule, so as to have enough time to leave before the bad weather arrived, and we were equipped with the necessary climbing equipment (for ice and rock). I was probably not as farsighted as I could have been as I thought the temperatures would be higher and so we had not taken enough jackets. During the last stretch of the climb we took a wrong turn and lost time returning to the right path. At 50 meters from the summit of the Aiguille du Midi, my ropeteam has a small problem and seeing that the weather had worsened rapidly and that I might put my companion at risk, we decided to call the PGHM (high mountain rescue team). They took us both to the summit of the Aiguille, with no more serious problem than a bit of a chill. I would like to take this opportunity to thank the mountain rescue teams for their work, which is always so professional and efficient.
This is a warning that the mountain is a hard and dangerous place, even when precautions are taken. One must be humble in the mountains, because a high price can be paid for our failures, especially when travelling light. We must accept and be aware of the risks that we are prepared to take individually and with the people who accompany us, depending on our physical and technical skill and also our experience. - See more at: http://www.kilianjornet.cat/es/blog/not ... 9Q0Wa.dpuf
On September 8th, I was climbing a mountain path on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi (France), the so-called Frendo spur. This was a route that I had done before with only the minimum of material. We were going according to schedule, so as to have enough time to leave before the bad weather arrived, and we were equipped with the necessary climbing equipment (for ice and rock). I was probably not as farsighted as I could have been as I thought the temperatures would be higher and so we had not taken enough jackets. During the last stretch of the climb we took a wrong turn and lost time returning to the right path. At 50 meters from the summit of the Aiguille du Midi, my ropeteam has a small problem and seeing that the weather had worsened rapidly and that I might put my companion at risk, we decided to call the PGHM (high mountain rescue team). They took us both to the summit of the Aiguille, with no more serious problem than a bit of a chill. I would like to take this opportunity to thank the mountain rescue teams for their work, which is always so professional and efficient.
This is a warning that the mountain is a hard and dangerous place, even when precautions are taken. One must be humble in the mountains, because a high price can be paid for our failures, especially when travelling light. We must accept and be aware of the risks that we are prepared to take individually and with the people who accompany us, depending on our physical and technical skill and also our experience. - See more at: http://www.kilianjornet.cat/es/blog/not ... 9Q0Wa.dpuf
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Canesciolto
- Messaggi: 571
- Iscritto il: 07/09/2010, 15:25
- Località: Treviso
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
La montagna non guarda in faccia nessuno, li le regole sono uguali per tutti e se sbagli paghi, punto.
Forse è anche per questo che vado in montagna.............
Forse è anche per questo che vado in montagna.............
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spiritotrail
- Amministratore
- Messaggi: 701
- Iscritto il: 25/10/2010, 8:58
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
...e la versione di Emelie:
Being rescued
Am I not humble enough? Have I the wrong picture of what I actually can do in the mountains? Have I overestimated my abilities?
Kilian and I went out climbing on Frendo Saturday morning. We had checked the weather, checked the route and we had in our mind that we could do the epron pretty fast. We estimated the time with the experience we had before. We know that we can move pretty fast in that kind of terrain.
We went climbing in a good pace. And when we reached the icy ridge we had only been out for a few hours. I thought to myself that woooha this must go really wrong if we don´t make it up there before 5 pm.
After the icepart we decided to go more in the rocks instead of the most common way up that was on the steep ice. That was in our plan the whole way, because we didn´t bring the proper gear for the ice. And that we knew before we started.
On the rock, I started to became a bit stressed. I was finding a way up that was a bit loose and I also didn´t have the best feelings after the icepart where I hurted my foot.
We took time climbing up, rappelling down, trying to find another way and so on we did for a while.
I became so cold and I couldn´t focus my thought very well. I was stressed and felt captured. We started to talk about possibilities. Rappelling down or try to do the last part even if we didn´t know if we could reach the summit that way or the last way out; call the rescue.
That was a hard decision it´s hard to know if we (I) could have manage go on without danger. I think that I could have manage all my power to go on, but with the cold and stress I had I really wasn´t sure about the risk Tahat t meant.
At 4.30 we called the rescue. They couldn´t make it with the helicopter so it took some time. When they came they was professional and everything went smooth.
One thing I wished is that they could have given us an estimated time of arrival. 5 hours of staying in the cold or power up for making a safe rappelling. I don´t know what was the best.
Afterwards I have thought a lot about this and I have came up with some answers to my first questions.
We underestimated the conditions and we didn´t make up a plan B if we would take longer time than normal.
And to the question why are you out on Frendo with only running shoes? I guess everyone needs to find his own way to approach things. And for me as a runner and a “hobby” climber I love the light way to approach mountains. This is how I want to do it. And this is how I feel comfortable. What is important is that we need to find our own comfortzon.
I thought Frendo was inside my zone, but with the conditions it was and the stupid mistake I did to not take a lot of extra warm clothes. It went wrong. I can also blame myself for being the weakest in the ropeteam. Without me I think Kilian would have been able to rappelling down or find a way up. And now people who don´t like this way of approaching mountains are very happy to say- look what we told you- this is wrong.
We are people. We make mistakes and learn from them. But this is still the way I love to be in the mountains. Light and fast.
http://emelieforsberg.com/being-rescued/
Being rescued
Am I not humble enough? Have I the wrong picture of what I actually can do in the mountains? Have I overestimated my abilities?
Kilian and I went out climbing on Frendo Saturday morning. We had checked the weather, checked the route and we had in our mind that we could do the epron pretty fast. We estimated the time with the experience we had before. We know that we can move pretty fast in that kind of terrain.
We went climbing in a good pace. And when we reached the icy ridge we had only been out for a few hours. I thought to myself that woooha this must go really wrong if we don´t make it up there before 5 pm.
After the icepart we decided to go more in the rocks instead of the most common way up that was on the steep ice. That was in our plan the whole way, because we didn´t bring the proper gear for the ice. And that we knew before we started.
On the rock, I started to became a bit stressed. I was finding a way up that was a bit loose and I also didn´t have the best feelings after the icepart where I hurted my foot.
We took time climbing up, rappelling down, trying to find another way and so on we did for a while.
I became so cold and I couldn´t focus my thought very well. I was stressed and felt captured. We started to talk about possibilities. Rappelling down or try to do the last part even if we didn´t know if we could reach the summit that way or the last way out; call the rescue.
That was a hard decision it´s hard to know if we (I) could have manage go on without danger. I think that I could have manage all my power to go on, but with the cold and stress I had I really wasn´t sure about the risk Tahat t meant.
At 4.30 we called the rescue. They couldn´t make it with the helicopter so it took some time. When they came they was professional and everything went smooth.
One thing I wished is that they could have given us an estimated time of arrival. 5 hours of staying in the cold or power up for making a safe rappelling. I don´t know what was the best.
Afterwards I have thought a lot about this and I have came up with some answers to my first questions.
We underestimated the conditions and we didn´t make up a plan B if we would take longer time than normal.
And to the question why are you out on Frendo with only running shoes? I guess everyone needs to find his own way to approach things. And for me as a runner and a “hobby” climber I love the light way to approach mountains. This is how I want to do it. And this is how I feel comfortable. What is important is that we need to find our own comfortzon.
I thought Frendo was inside my zone, but with the conditions it was and the stupid mistake I did to not take a lot of extra warm clothes. It went wrong. I can also blame myself for being the weakest in the ropeteam. Without me I think Kilian would have been able to rappelling down or find a way up. And now people who don´t like this way of approaching mountains are very happy to say- look what we told you- this is wrong.
We are people. We make mistakes and learn from them. But this is still the way I love to be in the mountains. Light and fast.
http://emelieforsberg.com/being-rescued/
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Molto bravi quelli dell'ufficio stampa Salomon che hanno fatto passare come unica colpevole Emelie. Per fortuna era con Kilian che per non farLe correre pericoli ha deciso di chiamare il soccorso alpino. 
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Apprezzo l'analisi serena di Emelie riguardo ai facci accaduti.spiritotrail ha scritto: We are people. We make mistakes and learn from them. But this is still the way I love to be in the mountains. Light and fast.
E' stato ammesso un errore di valutazione del meteo e dell'attrezzatura (vestiti caldi), e lo sbaglio di non aver pianificato un eventuale "Piano B". Pero' io ci vedo anche umiltà e maturità nel chiedere aiuto e nel non sopravvalutarsi cercando a tutti i costi di uscire dai guai coi propri mezzi.
In fin dei conti, anche se noi li vediamo come superuomini/donne, sono persone come noi che amano la montagna e che possono commettere errori.
E visto che tutto è andato bene, mi stanno più simpatici di prima ... ora possiamo dire che anche Kilian fa cazzate in montagna, come tutti noi abbiamo fatto almeno una volta nella vita
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Amen!Paso ha scritto:Pero' io ci vedo anche umiltà e maturità nel chiedere aiuto e nel non sopravvalutarsi cercando a tutti i costi di uscire dai guai coi propri mezzi.spiritotrail ha scritto: We are people. We make mistakes and learn from them. But this is still the way I love to be in the mountains. Light and fast.
In fin dei conti, anche se noi li vediamo come superuomini/donne, sono persone come noi che amano la montagna e che possono commettere errori.
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Io non capisco dove sia il problema... Due persone che conoscono la montagna hanno deciso di andarci come hanno ritenuto opportuno (chissà quante altre volte lo hanno fatto e nessuno ha detto niente), hanno fatto un errore di valutazione (muoiono anche le guide alpine) e delle altre persone del soccorso alpino (penso non costretti da nessuno a fare quel lavoro) li hanno recuperati.
Re: Kilian soccorso sull'Aiguille du Midi
Infattimaaax ha scritto:Io non capisco dove sia il problema... Due persone che conoscono la montagna hanno deciso di andarci come hanno ritenuto opportuno (chissà quante altre volte lo hanno fatto e nessuno ha detto niente), hanno fatto un errore di valutazione (muoiono anche le guide alpine) e delle altre persone del soccorso alpino (penso non costretti da nessuno a fare quel lavoro) li hanno recuperati.
!
